Against the tide, freethinkers fight dogmas by peacefully denouncing divergences on forgotten inequities

If our society today suffers from the consequences of the intellectual movements of a self-righteous civilization that has proclaimed at all costs the equity of humanity, then this same society also has nevertheless largely dogmatized its claims by compartmentalizing its choices and its struggles, and this observation is glaringly obvious and even disturbing in the American wine agriculture and winemaking. Because today more than ever, trendy wines are not only ecological, natural, biodynamic or alcohol-free, but they also get major bonus points if they are made by female winemakers and/or LGBTQIA2S+ winemakers, and this without consideration whether the wine is good (on classic quality standards). We must therefore note that in this society, where the right to free thought and the free expression of one's opinions is not really acceptable in the name of a certain offensive inequality, we leave little room and credit to American winemakers of color, as if all of a sudden wine had only gender origins.

I have never chosen a wine because of its origin of gender or color, for me my right as a “free thinker” dictate to me to, above all, choose and promote wines "of soul", wines that speak, wines of opinions, wines that do not lie, honest and upright wines, "Authors' Wines". Believe me, these wines are rare in this fast-food society, where "Processed wines” envy the markets by compartmentalizing them. This is why at Bonde Fine Wine we do not look at the "shades" of the wines, which gives us the unique freedom to represent the whole of American wine democracy. It is therefore with great pleasure that we highlight this month of Black History by offering you the opportunity to discover two great wines produced by two African American male winemakers from California.

Would you be surprised to know that Bloomberg estimates that only 0.1% of winemakers and brand owners in the U.S. are black? I’m not.

The first Black American winemaker in the U.S. was John June Lewis Sr., who fell in love with wine and viticulture while stationed in France during World War I. Shortly after prohibition ended, he inherited land in Clarksville, Virginia, and by 1933, he began to grow his first grapes on the land. In 1940, Lewis opened Woburn Winery and sold his wines to locals until he passed in 1974. However, historical records and censuses show that African Americans first arrived in Napa and Sonoma in the 1850s. Even though there were black workers active in the various trades in the Californian vineyards at that time, there is no record that they were involved in the early days of American winemaking. It wasn't until the 1990s that African American-owned wineries were established in California, the first of which was Brown Estate established by the Brown family in the Chiles Valley AVA of Napa Valley.

David Brown, co-founder and winemaker of Brown Estate

The roots of this family-owned winery date back to 1980, when Bassett and Marcela Abrahams Brown bought this abandoned ranch and then completely restored it. They planted vines to sell the grapes to local winemakers, but it wasn’t until 1995 that the children, Deneen, David and Coral, founded Brown Estate and began producing wine under their own labels. David's great passion has always been Zinfandel, of which his first vintage was 1996 for Brown Estate, so it is not surprising to know that, year after year, the Brown Estate Zinfandel continues to be recognized as one of the estate’s crown jewels, and captures the essence of the Zinfandel terroir for Napa Valley. Today, Brown Estate has two outstanding labels and remains one of the few all-family-owned estates in Napa Valley and the only Black-owned winery in the area.

Brown Estate Zinfandel 2023, Napa Valley, CA

(2025 SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE WINE COMPETITION GOLD AWARD WINNER)

Dark garnet color with beautiful magenta reflections, with a nose of ripe black cherry, Asian pear, grenadine, citrus, flowering gardenia, old oil lamp, and with notes of sandalwood cedar. The palate is juicy, enveloping and silky with a very nice balance of vibrant acidity, finely integrated tannins, and with a powerful and persistent finish. This wine can be drunk now, or wait a few more years, say 2035! Open now with glazed short ribs and matchstick fries, beef Wellington, or dark chocolate and Chile Ancho soufflé.

Derek Baljeu Winemaker of Knights Bridge Winery

With a bachelor's and master's degree in viticulture and oenology from U.C. Davis, Derek Baljeu joined Knights Bridge Winery as Assistant Winemaker in 2019, and was promoted to winemaker in 2021, making him one of the most respected African American Winemakers in California today. Derek brings his talent to this vineyard around a team of talented professionals striving together to pursue excellence, from sustainable farming methods guided by a deep respect for nature, a passion for small-batch wine production to unique tasting experiences. Knights Bridge Winery is committed to fine and a dedication to diversity, family and friends.

Knights Bridge Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Knights Valley, Sonoma, CA

The grapes of the Knights Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon vintage 2019 come from several blocks of the estate with different elevations, orientations, and irrigation, which allows a harmonious and very well-balanced blend. The result is a wine that opens with an airy bouquet of blackcurrant and chocolate from Madagascar, with top notes of lavender flower. The mid-palate is supple, full, and elegant, showcasing the cooler climate of Knights Valley. Pleasant to drink in the coming months, it will develop even more complexity in the next 10 to 20 years in the cellar. Enjoy now with grilled New York steak and herb butter or roasted lamb chops with a red wine reduction. It will also go very well with a tasting of dark chocolate with 70%+ pure cocoa.