Vol. 44 - "Grazing-Based Viticulture"

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Antiquum Farm

Introduction

In a wine-growing world often dominated by standardization and traditional methods, some initiatives propose to reinvent the relationship with the vine and the terroir. This new approach is inspired by the principles of regenerative agriculture which focuses on restoring soil health, promoting biodiversity, creating closed and resilient systems, while deviating from established biodynamic frameworks and conventional organic practices.

Here, the goal is not to follow a lunar or cosmic calendar, esoteric practices, or to conform to rigid certifications. Nor are they simple organic practices aimed at limiting chemical inputs. The novelty lies in the establishment of a living agricultural ecosystem, where vines, soils, vegetation and animals interact naturally. Man becomes an observer and facilitator, guiding the process but letting nature find its own balances and rhythms. It is this vision that underpins the approach of a pioneer like Stephen Hagen at Antiquum Farm, where viticulture is transformed into a quest for authentic expression of the terroir, where each vine and each bunch is nourished by the life around them rather than by external inputs. This approach proposes a new model for viticulture in the twenty-first century: a vine that lives, evolves and expresses itself, in symbiosis with its environment.

CHAPTER 1.0

Verse 43.1.01: Stephen Hagen

The first steps of a visionary towards difference

To the south, away from the sub-AVAs of Oregon's northern Willamette Valley, is a winery that stands out not only for its wines, but for its philosophy: Antiquum Farm, run by Stephen Hagen, a passionate winemaker and farmer. Far from the classic viticulture schools, he learned about the soil and the climate by walking in

the fields, observing the seasons and nature. This intimate familiarity with the land has shaped his philosophy: "wine is not made, it is cultivated, guided by natural forces and human attention". Here, each bunch, each plot and each season are observed and respected, because the wine is designed as the reflection of a living place, an ecosystem where the earth, plants, animals and humans coexist.

43.1.02: Grazing-Based Viticulture (GBV)

The primary vision was to create a place where the earth and its inhabitants, humans, animals and plants, help and express themselves. No mechanical or chemical intervention is imposed, and where every decision is guided by the ecology of the place. With the aim of promoting an autonomous and sustainable system, where the soil is nourished naturally, the vines draw from depth, and the vineyard regenerates without external inputs. Unlike conventional viticulture, Stephen Hagen's practice integrates animals at the heart of the viticulture system. Sheep, pigs, chickens and others roam the rows in a rotational grazing, fertilizing the soil, controlling vegetation and stimulating biodiversity.

43.1.03: The multiple benefits

“Our vineyard is not managed, it’s grazed.”

The soil becomes alive and self-sustaining, the vines develop unique characteristics, and the vineyard gains resilience to diseases or climatic variations. GBV is thus an empirical and organic viticulture, focused on life rather than on production or standardized recipes. This unique practice, which is neither biodynamic nor regenerative, nevertheless shares certain values with biodynamics and regenerative agriculture, which are fundamentally different.

Compared to biodynamics

This is based on cosmic forces, herbal or dung-based preparations, and a lunar calendar. GBV is strictly empirical, and the vitality of the vine comes from the real interactions between animals, plants and soil, without reference to the cosmos.

Compared to regenerative agriculture

While the latter seeks to restore soil health and biodiversity, GBV goes further. Here, animals are the engine of the system, and the soil regenerates naturally through an internal, living cycle, without compost or external inputs. Hagen does not only regenerate the land, it aims to awaken the natural intelligence of the vineyard, creating an ecosystem capable of self-adaptation and evolution thanks to the natural force of microbiota, the rhizosphere and the symbioses of the soil mycelia. This innovative practice of viticulture combines ecological vision, empiricism and direct observation, while remaining distinct from traditional biodynamic and regenerative practices.

43.1.04: Key principles of the method

Animals as an ecological driver

GBV is based on a variety of grazing animals that intervene directly in the vineyard to fertilize, control vegetation and stimulate biodiversity. Specific species used include:

Sheep

Mainly for grazing grass and weeds between the rows of vines.

Their manure naturally enriches the soil and stimulates microbial life.

Pigs

Introduced to work the soil superficially, by digging and digging the earth.

This activity contributes to aeration, nutrient distribution and stimulation of microorganisms.

Chickens and Goose

Consume insect pests and help recycle organic matter.

Their movements also help to mix and lightly fertilize the soil.

Other grazing animals (occasional seasonally)

Some herds of goats or smaller animals may be introduced on an ad hoc basis for specific areas, depending on the needs of the soil and vegetation.

The essence of GBV is that these animals are not incidental. They form an integrated system where each plays a specific role in the fertility and health of the vineyard, effectively replacing chemical or mechanical inputs.

CHAPTER 2.0

Verse 43.2.01: Creating a Living Ecosystem

The vineyard becomes a closed system where nutrients circulate naturally.

Animals, plants and microorganisms interact to strengthen soil fertility and resilience.

Biodiversity is voluntarily encouraged to support the overall health of the vineyard.

43.2.02: Rotation and Observation

The animals are moved regularly to avoid overgrazing and allow the soil to regenerate.

Each plot is carefully observed: the rotation is guided by the condition of the soil, the vegetation and the growth of the vines, rather than by a fixed calendar.

43.2.03: Minimalisme humain

Human intervention is reduced to the role of observer and facilitator. No chemical fertilization, standardized amendments, or intensive mechanical ploughing are used.

The role of humans is to support the natural balance, not to control it.

43.2.04: Results on the vine

The vines develop deep roots to draw their resources, which strengthens their resilience.

Unique physiological characteristics appear smaller clusters, thicker skins, variable colors. Stephen Hagen says he observes a genetic self-transformation of his vines depending on their location in the vineyard.

CHAPTER 3.0

The wines of Antiquum*

While Stephen produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines of very high quality, it is the exceptional character of his Pinot Gris that most deeply reflects the action of Grazing-Based Viticulture on its wines.

Daisy Pinot Gris

The must is fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, then undergoes natural malolactic fermentation and rests on its lees for 6 to 8 months in stainless steel tanks and neutral French oak barrels. This wine offers a precise aromatic palette, with notes of citrus zest, ginger, sea breeze, jasmine and white peach. On the palate, it has a voluptuous texture and lively acidity, balancing complexity, freshness and depth. The 2024 vintage is considered one of Daisy's best vintages to date.

Aurosa Pinot Gris

This Pinot Gris reflects the philosophy of Antiquum Farm, combining biodiversity, soil regeneration and pasture-based viticulture, while giving a wine that combines freshness, aromatic complexity and tactile elegance. The westernmost twenty-four rows of our Pinot Gris vineyard began to show a genetic transformation in 2010. The skins of the grapes dramatically shifted in color, sometimes displaying patterns of different colors on individual grapes. This visual clue drove us to realize these changes were offering something exciting and new. Briefly exposing the skins to the grape must at the start of the winemaking process yields these wines glowing peach hue. Made with artisanal care, fermentation on indigenous yeasts and maturation in neutral oak barrels, allowing the terroir to be fully expressed without masking the natural character of the grape. This is expressed through expressive aromas of peach, alpine strawberry and hibiscus flowers, creating a bouquet that is both fruity and floral. On the palate, it offers a silky texture with a well-balanced acidity, supporting slightly mineral notes and a delicately tannic finish, giving it an elegant and persistent structure.

Alium Pinot Gris

A bolder wine, resulting from a 40-day skin maceration. This Ramato-style wine is distinguished by its elegant and refined aromatic expression. Its colour has light golden purple hues, a sign of maturity and particular care in winemaking. On the nose, it reveals delicate floral notes, mixed with touches of ripe pear and golden apple, accompanied by a light background of almond or honey, giving it a subtle complexity. On the palate, it is characterized by a silky texture and a beautiful roundness, supported by a fresh acidity that perfectly balances the fruitiness, which offers a fine minerality, a reflection of the specific terroir of the farm, with a persistent length in the mouth that allows nuances of flintstone and fine spices to be perceived.

Perpetua Album IV

A unique Solera wine incorporating previous vintages for increased complexity. In each of the vintages, the grapes for Perpetua Album IV are selected manually, plot by plot, favoring ripe and healthy bunches. This approach ensures a pure expression of the terroir. The grapes undergo light pressing, aimed at extracting only the quality juice, with a minimum of tannins and bitterness. Then the juice ferments at low temperature in stainless steel vats where indigenous yeasts are favored to reflect the natural complexity of the grape and its terroir. The wine is then left to mature on its fine lees for several months in 1000-litre oak barrels. This step brings texture, richness and additional aromatic subtlety. Each year half of the volume of wine from each barrel is taken for bottling, and the barrels are refilled with the freshly vinified wine of the year. This process of educating young wine with wines from previous years (the concept of the Solera) will allow the production of wines that will express the sense of time with a sense of place. This regular rotation allows for a continuous blend of wines from different years, ensuring aromatic and structural consistency. The wine is generally not filtered to preserve all its liveliness and complexity. The wine will go through a final ageing in vats in order to refine the balance of the union of the different barrels before bottling.

Passiflora Pinot Noir

Coming from the highest point of the vineyard, this wine is distinguished by its light texture and vibrant acidity, offering an elegant expression of the terroir. It is a red wine that perfectly illustrates the philosophy of Antiquum Farm. On the nose, it reveals aromas of red cherry and ripe raspberry, accompanied by floral nuances (rose, violet) and a slight spicy or earthy background, signature of the farm's soil. On the palate, the wine is silky, elegant, with fine tannins and a fresh acidity that perfectly balances the fruitiness, offering a persistent and harmonious length. The specificity of Pasiflora Pinot Noir lies in the balance between fruit, freshness and finesse, and aromatic power, highlighting the typicity of Pinot Noir in a context of temperate climate and rich soils.

Niki Lee Chardonnay

This Chardonnay is an elegant and expressive white wine. Its color is a luminous pale yellow with subtle golden reflections. On the nose, it presents complex aromas of ripe apple, pear, candied citrus and delicate floral notes, accompanied by a touch of brown butter and light vanilla, inherited from barrel ageing. On the palate, the wine is silky and structured, with a balancing acidity that brings freshness and tension, and a persistent finish marked by fine minerality. The specificity of Niki Lee Chardonnay lies in the subtle balance between aromatic richness, freshness and minerality, offering a delicate and deep expression of the grape variety and the terroir. This wine is reminiscent of the best wines of Beaune with a very Antiquum signature.

If you want to learn more about Antiquum Farm and Stephen Hagen's philosophy and have the pleasure of tasting all his wines with him. Register quickly for our Winemaker Series on Tuesday, October 14th (in less than 10 days)

Mr. B

*Memorandum:

My words and opinions in these newsletters are and would always be personal, and I intend to offend.

I always accept that others have the full right and duty to challenge me, to argue, and, if it is necessary, excommunicate me from their beliefs (often dull and hollow) because I would act the same way if it were the other way around.