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Ciel!! My Rosé Again

Sixty months later

Book of Bertil # 54

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Dear readers, dear friends, emeritus members of Bonde Fine Wine,

Exactly five years ago, I wrote you my first newsletter: Bertil's Book, Vol. 1, entitled "Ciel!! My Rosé" and so, after 60 months, 53 Newsletters, 8 "Wine Note – Screeds", 68 Blogs, it was time for me and for you, to return to my first major subject: rosé. A newsletter to help you understand "Rosé, the new Orange".

* Title taken from the theatrical expression "Ciel!! Mon Mari - Sky!! My husband". This classic vaudeville line was traditionally used by a woman caught in a compromising situation.

Introduction

In July 2021, I started my newsletter with: "The year 2020 (twenty-twenty) has changed the world and ourselves (of course, for the worse, I can't say) and bringing us, it seems, closer to the end of the world (I read it on QAnon). We also understood that our civilization could disappear because of a simple virus: COVID-19. So, we all reacted. We have barricaded ourselves in our homes; We refused to get close to each other (you're never sure of anyone, not even your own children!). We followed the progression of deaths by satellite and on social networks, which transmitted to us an absolute and indisputable truth, as the Church once did. We have also developed a strong sense of individualism, allowing the subversives and impostors of this world to shine and rule. Finally, we discovered that the Big Mac was not the supreme culinary reference on the planet and that, perhaps, rosé was not just a summer wine."

June 2026

Even if these remarks may seem surprising today, out of their initial context, we must note that they have nevertheless kept certain truths and, by the same token, a certain observation of ambiguity in our globalized society of our time. Or we have made a self-denial of the words: Listen and Compassion. But also, more than ever, a misinformation and a simplification of the world, where variable nuances are useless since the grey areas of moderation have disappeared, and where only the pros and cons count. However, rosé wines are full of nuances that determine their color, body, aromas and taste. So, here's a simplified way to know what and why to choose a rosé wine, and not another.

AKA: To simplify the context, I will only talk about rosé wines that are neither industrially produced nor the result of blends of white and red wines, let alone artificially colored or flavored wines. I will only talk to you about "artisan" wines, rosé wines made of compassion, know-how and listening.

CHAPTER 1.0

Verse 54.1.01: The Grape

Rosé wine is the result of a more or less short contact with the skin of the red grape from which it is produced. The winemaking method, Direct Press, Short Fermentation on the Skin, or Bleeding, depends entirely on the type of grape variety chosen for its production. The wine produced in this way can either be the source of a single grape variety or a blend, near or post-fermentation, of different grape varieties. Vines from warm regions will naturally produce thick-skinned grapes containing much more red, purple or blue pigments, derived from anthocyanins. This same observation applies conversely for grapes from more temperate or cold regions; the grapes will naturally be less colored with much thinner skin, and therefore will contain less pigment density. While the pulp and juice of the grape, which are white in color, develop floral and white fruit aromas, anthocyanins produce tannins and aromas of red and black fruits.

Verse 54.1.02: The Logic of Methods

In order to produce a dry rosé wine, without residual sugar, it is necessary to balance the acidity, a moderate alcohol, a certain amplitude of the palate, and an aromatic palette ranging from floral to fruity, without breaking the freshness of the wine which must be cooled, and therefore must be low in tannin so as not to become astringent and bitter in the mouth when tasting.

Choice of Method

Direct Press:

This method, which consists of pressing the fresh grapes without first crushing or cold pre-fermentation maceration, has the effect of releasing only very small quantities of anthocyanins (red pigments) with the press juice. This will result in wines of very light colors ranging from porcelain rose petals like the Queen of Sweden, to soft pink like that of rosehips.

Saigné (Bleeding):

This method consists of taking part of the unfermented juice from a vat initially intended for red winemaking. After harvesting, the red grapes are destemmed and crushed, then put into vats. The juice remains in contact with the skins and pulp for a short period of time, usually between a few hours and two days. This maceration allows the extraction of pigments, aromas and certain phenolic compounds contained in the skins. When the desired color is achieved, part of the juice is drawn from the vat. The juice thus taken is then vinified; this continuation of alcoholic fermentation generally takes place at low temperature in order to preserve the fruity aromas and freshness of the wine. This method produces rosés with deeper colors, intense red fruit aromas and a more pronounced structure. The wine produced will be salmon pink to deep pink like the Lalande de Pomerol rose.

Short Maceration on the skin:

The sole objective of the vat is to produce exclusively rosé wine. There is no associated production of red wine, as with the so-called bleeding method. The objective being to produce only one rosé wine, at the end of the maceration (12 to 24 hours), the entire contents of the vat are pressed. The winemaker will definitively separate all the rosé juice from the solids. The grape skins are discarded (in compost or distillation). These wines generally offer greater aromatic freshness with notes of fresh fruit, and a more pronounced liveliness in the mouth. Their colors are more intense than direct press rosés, but shallower than those of saigné.

Verse 54.1.04: The logic of grape varieties

The more the chosen grape variety comes from warm climates, such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Malbec or Zinfandel, the more the winemaker will choose the direct press method. The more temperate to southern the grape variety, such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, or Nero d'Avola, the more the winemaker will choose the method of short maceration on the skin. The more the grapes chosen are intended to produce red wine, the more the winemaker will choose the method of bleeding, because the grapes chosen come from fully ripe harvests.

CHAPTER 2.0

Verse 54.2.01: Interaction between the origin of the grape, the color of the wine, the aromas and the body of the wine in the mouth:

Pale colored rosé wines: Direct press wine
Light body wine

Aromas:

These wines will express more particularly the following notes:

Citrus fruits (The signature of freshness)

• Pink grapefruit (very characteristic of directly pressed Syrah or Vermentino)
• Lime or lemon zest
• Mandarin or blood orange

It is often the dominant note that brings liveliness to the palate.

Fresh and crunchy fruits (Fruity lightness)

• Wild strawberry or fresh raspberry
• Redcurrant
• Vine peach or white melon (gourmet aromas often brought by Grenache)

Unlike bleeding rosés which evoke jam or ripe fruit, direct pressing offers notes of barely picked, tangy and airy fruit.

Floral, vegetal, noble and mineral notes

• White flowers (hawthorn, jasmine) and vine flowers
• The garrigue or dry herbs (rosemary, thyme)
• Peppermint (which enhances the feeling of freshness)
• A mineral/saline touch (feeling of flinty or iodine)

It is these subtle touches that make the complexity of the great rosés of hot climates.

Palate: A balance focused on tension. These wines will offer a light body with a very lively, straight and saline palate. There is almost no tannic structure, which gives a fluid wine. This makes it a thirst-quenching wine for the aperitif; its very floral aspect will be an alternative for the meal to white wines.

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Medium-colored rosé wines: Wine with a short maceration on the skin
Light to medium body wine

Aromas:

This process makes it possible to extract a maximum of aroma precursors located just under the skin of the grape, without extracting too much tannins or color. The nose of a rosé with a short maceration is often the most exuberant and expressive in the world of rosés.

Exotic and orchard fruits (Aromatic exuberance)

• Ripe yellow peach or apricot (very common with Grenache blanche or Rolle often blended)
• Passion fruit and mango
• The Cavaillon melon or the lychee

This is the signature of this method. Maceration releases intense and pulpy aromas reminiscent of summer fruits.

Tangy red fruits and ripe citrus fruits

• English candy or marshmallow (fermentative aromas amplified by this method)
• Fresh raspberry and redcurrant
• Pink grapefruit zest or Maltese orange (which adds pep)

The fruity notes here are very bright, reminiscent of fruit candies or freshly crushed berries.

Sweet floral notes and fresh spices

• Blackcurrant bud or tomato leaf (noble vegetal touches that bring complexity)
• Orange blossom or jasmine
• White pepper is discreet

The skin releases floral touches that are softer and less heady than bloodletting.

Palate: The ideal compromise between freshness and volume. On the palate, the aromas of a rosé with a short maceration unfold in a very fruity, fleshy and coated substance (thanks to the fat extracted from the skins), but which retains a very fresh and lively finish. Unlike bleeding, there is no tannic sensation, making it an extremely flattering and alluring wine.

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Rosé wines with intense color: wine of saigné
Medium to full body wine

The aromatic profile of a rosé de saignée is therefore more intense, more complex and more structured, sometimes approaching that of a light red wine. Its aromas are based on three main families:

Ripe and gourmet red fruits (The signature of maceration)

• Crushed strawberry or strawberry jam (very typical of Grenache)
• The black cherry or the sour cherry
• Blackberries and ripe raspberries
• Pomegranate and gooseberry

Where direct pressing evokes crisp fruit, bleeding develops notes of fleshy fruit, even lightly cooked or candied.

Spices and notes of garrigue (Complexity)

• Black pepper or white pepper
• Licorice (dill or licorice)
• Herbs of Provence (thyme, rosemary, bay leaf)
• Cinnamon or sweet spices

Maceration allows the extraction of deeper aromas, often linked to the terroir and the grape varieties.

Heady, autumnal floral notes

• The faded rose or the rose petal
• Peony
• Undergrowth or a slight touch of leather (on bleeding rosés that have been aged for one or two years)

The floral aromas of a rosé de saignée are denser and warmer than those of a press rosé.

Palate: A vinous and generous structure. Beyond the nose, the aromas of a rosé de saignée are expressed in a round, powerful and warm mouth. The wine has relief, fatness and a slight tannic presence on the finish which gives it persistence. It is a true gastronomic rosé.

CHAPTER 3.0

Verse 54.3.01: The Smart Choice

Choose your rosé by comparing the color and origin of the grape variety, this will give you information on the body of the wine:

• The more intense and deep the pink color, the closer the wines will become to the primary aromas of the grape variety expressed in the red wine. The more powerful the body, the tannins (astringencies) will be present.
• The more average the pink color, the closer the wine will be to the aromas of red fruits mixed with the white fruits of the orchard. The body will be medium, and the tannins (astringencies) will be melted.
• The paler the pink color, the closer the wine will be to the primary aromas of white and floral fruit, close to those of a white wine. The lighter the body is, the tannins (astringencies) will be non-existent.

Verse 54.3.01: Temp

• More structured and gourmet rosé: 50 to 54°F
• Aromatic and medium-colored rosé: 45 to 46°F
• Light pink, very pale in color: 43 to 46°F

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Conclusion

Rosé wine is much more than just a seasonal wine or a simple attraction of color. Its aromatic profile, structure and color are the direct result of the grape varieties chosen, the terroir from which they come, and the winemaking methods used, each nuance of which reveals its own identity. Understanding color not only allows you to choose your wine better, but also to find the style of rosé that truly meets your taste expectations. So, sixty months after asking the question in "Ciel!! My Rosé", does it always deserve the same answer? Shouldn't we finally consider rosé as a true category of wine, rich in its nuances and diversity, rather than just a summer wine that we ask for nothing more than to be fresh?