Proxies and Shrubs

A disaster foretold, or the tyranny of the susceptible

In a world where we don't want to shock anyone, where inclusion is a good omen, where the normal has become the exception, and where one is more concerned with the perception that others have of them than with knowing who they are, Homo Sapiens Temporibus has completely lost the very meaning of its original definition. The adjective Homo, which means "man or human" and Sapiens, which means "wise or cunning" and Temporibus, which means "of his time or modern", makes me doubt its original definition today. To ask if it would be more appropriate and fairer to rename it "Homo Ovis Sequi Modernus". Because the Ovis are known for their herd instinct, a fundamental behavioral trait of the species. In fact, the hierarchical organization encourages this Ovis to obediently follow (Sequi) a leader (Influencer). It is also known that if one member of the group panics, everyone will imitate them, even if the action will lead to their downfall. Thus, at the sight of a potential predator, each individual throws themselves into the void without thinking of the disastrous fate that awaits them. This characteristic following of the species gave rise to the expression "to follow each other like sheep".

The growing desire among younger generations to treat their body as holy and consume only wholesome food has some unscrupulous (though not all—thankfully) producers to aggressively market dealcoholized products to Gen Z, Gen X, and Millennials. These products are designed to taste identical to their alcoholic counterparts, to the point that they are called "alcohol-free wine," "zero-proof cocktail," or "non-alcoholic spirit." It's as if these so-called "health" products are meant to train Generations X and Alpha not to be disappointed when they eventually try the alcoholic versions—and to ensure Millennials don't feel left out when choosing zero-proof options. It is, in fact, the alcohol producers—fearing of seeing their profits disintegrate —who have devised a way to transform their alcoholic products into dealcoholized substitutes. This allows them to not only maintain their market presence but also generate additional revenue by reselling the extracted ethanol for use in solvents, disinfectants, fuels, and other industries. Unfortunately, particularly in the case of dealcoholized wines, the result is often mediocre at best, lacking in both quality and substance.

I must admit that, to me, all of this feels like a deception. Wine and spirits don’t need to be dealcoholized to be considered “healthy” or appealing, because alcohol-free beverages have existed for millennia under names like shrubs or proxies. Their purpose has never been to mimic alcoholic drinks, but rather to embrace their own identity—preserving full organoleptic complexity while offering complementary pairings with both simple and sophisticated dishes. But let’s return to the point and remember to include those who abstain from alcohol for medical, religious, or social reasons. They, too, deserve the pleasure of taste and the joy of social connection.

This is why, curious and intrigued, with the requirements of a professional sommelier, I started looking for "shrubs and proxies" that would pass the quality test identical to the one used for the technical sheet for the evaluation of a wine or a spirit. In this approach I also wanted to respect the philosophy and the high-quality requirements of the products I offer at the shop, namely: Eco-responsible products, natural ingredients, high quality, and of American origin. I also took the time to taste shrubs and proxies from different origins and countries, to compare and understand what is available on the current market.

What is a Shrub:

Shrubs have a long and rich history, alongside its close cousin, Switchel. Both are made by combining vinegar and sugar, both have enjoyed popularity as alternatives to Prohibition alcohol, and both have seen a comeback in recent years. Before refrigeration became a household luxury, vinegar was used to preserve fruits and vegetables to keep them fresh. The British Navy used Shrubs in the 18th century to combat scurvy, and in America, during Prohibition, there was an increase in the number of Shrubs used as alternatives to thirst-quenching liquor – drinks that could "brighten, but not intoxicate." In fact, because vinegar promotes salivation, shrubs are particularly hydrating and thirst-quenching, which led to their widespread consumption across the United States during the summer months. Then in the late 1900s, after home refrigeration became the norm and soft drinks like Coca-Cola became widespread, shrubs lost popularity, and it wasn't until the culture of cocktails and "Dealcoholized Wines" began that they came back into fashion.

Of course, a Shrub will introduce a bit of vinegar taste to your drink. However, it will also add sugar and fruit, so it's a great way to add sweetness, flavor, and complexity.

What is a Proxy:

While Proxy (wines) is a fairly new term, the techniques and processes used for the elaboration of a proxy are based on ancient fermentation methods that date back millennia. One of the defining features of Proxy is their diverse ingredient uses. While traditional wines are made exclusively from grapes, proxies can include a variety of fruits, herbs, spices, and fermented bases. Like Kombucha or kefir, this results in a wider range of flavors and complexity that is often lacking in dealcoholized wines. For example, proxy can mix grape juice with Verjus (the juice of unripe grapes), herbal infusions, and botanical extracts, resulting in a multi-layered taste experience. The fermentation process, while minimal, brings a subtle yeast and a slight alcohol content, usually around 0.4 to 0.5%, comparable to the alcohol content of a ripe banana.

Today I invite you to discover two new zero-proof products that meet these standards, and which are now available at Bonde Fine Wine for your greatest pleasure and that we import exclusively from NY.

Today I invite you to discover two new zero-proof products that meet these standards, and which are now available at Bonde Fine Wine for your greatest pleasure and that we import exclusively from NY.

Sparkle on Norïe

Great Vibes Company

Hoboken, NJ

Created by a passionate and captivating couple, she is a Chef from Michelin Stars restaurants, and he is a visionary entrepreneur from Brazil who were looking for a Zero Proof sparkling wine of that was high quality and tasted good. Disappointed and dissatisfied with the dealcoholized products available on the market, they decided to create their own beverages based on the rules applied to proxies. The goal was to create a product with bold flavors, with natural ingredients, and great quality. After a year of researching, testing and refining, experimenting with organic fermented flowers, fruits and plants, they finally created Norïe in 2024 in different flavors and body, from light to full.

Norïe

Heart of Gold

With a deep gold color with reflections of tenderloin flowers with a beautiful creamy mousse that invites you to taste. The nose is calm and discreet with aromatic reminiscences of Gewurztraminer and Pinot Blanc. On the palate, a light body and a very nice acidity which allows floral and herbaceous aromas to be perceived on a very persistent minerality. Don't look for sugar or a very round body, the exercise is there to oppose it, crispy and refreshing. It will be an ideal companion with fresh goat cheese or cheddar cheese, grilled vegetable salad, fish or seafood that does not require cream or butter. For dessert, a white cherry clafouti, a Buddha’s hand pie, or a frangipane cake in the style of Galette des Rois.

Ingredients:

Water, Organic Fermented Milk Thistle, Honey, Quince Juice Concentrate, Organic Calendula Extract, Organic Angelica Root Extract, Natural Honeysuckle Extract, Meyer Lemon Juice Concentrate, Natural Vanilla Extract, Natural Silver Needle White Tea Extract, Natural Tarragon Extract.

<0.5% Alc., 750 ml.

Norïe

Red Rose Whisper

English brick in color with reflections of pomegranate skin, the mousse is also consistent on fine bubbles. The nose is very expressive, almost exuberant with a floral opulence and unsweetened red fruits, plum, pomegranate, dates, and mangosteen. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful tannins and fruity but without sugar. Its opulence and length will suit very well where you would have put a Cabernet Franc, a Grenache or a Tempranillo. Pair with couscous, beef stew, Middle Eastern mezze (hummus, baba ghanoush, Fatouch, and beef or Pumpkins Kibbeh), dishes rich in oriental spices, curry, or Cajun cuisine. A guaranteed delight with a chicken Kedjenou from the Ivory Coast classic. For cheeses, blues are a good choice, as for desserts, date square, prune flan, or soufflé with Maraschino cherry extract.

Ingredients:

Water, Organic Fermented Milk Thistle, Honey, Pomegranate Juice Concentrate, Prune Juice Concentrate, Meyer Lemon Juice Concentrate, Natural Rose Extract, Orange Peel Extract, Natural White Tea Extract, Natural Vanilla Extract, Natural Dill Extract, Black Pepper Extract, Fruit and Vegetable Juice for Color.

<0.5% Alc., 750 ml.