​The Aromatic Molecules of Mushrooms

The Aromatic

Molecules of Mushrooms

Introduction

Here we are in autumn, an extraordinary period, because it brings with it the season of wild mushrooms, those from here as well as those that come to us from other continents. Their names make us dream and excite the taste buds: hen of the woods (Grifola frondosa) at the foot of the oaks, late chanterelles, lion’s mane, armillaria, boletes, porcini mushrooms, autumn oyster mushrooms, collybia with velvety feet, bluefoot, trumpets of death, lobster mushroom, not to mention the white truffle and the black truffle. Even if they can be perceived as a homogeneous category, each has its own dominant aromatic compounds and its singular texture: the hen of the woods reveals notes of earth and hazelnut, the oyster mushroom a hint of almond, the chanterelle a scent of apricot, the trumpet of death smoky and peppery accents, while the truffles deploy a sulfurous, deep and bewitching register. Their textures vary just as much, ranging from dense and fibrous flesh with silky delicacy, to a slightly firm crunch. This diversity makes each mushroom a fascinating but demanding partner, whose pairing also requires a good understanding of everything that will accompany it on the plate: the sauce, legumes and proteins, as well as the starch that could be used. So, the same dish of wild mushrooms can reveal the best or worst of a wine, depending on the aroma you choose to resonate, the cooking chosen, the acidity that refreshes or the wood that knows how to remain discreet. In the following lines, I will try to explain to you, as simply as possible, these secrets, mushroom by mushroom, so that each autumn plate finds its ideal glass and your table is a real joy of molecular pairings.

The basic principle

The concept of a molecular accord is based on the aromatic compounds shared or complementary between the food and the wine. These aromatic bridges are hypotheses from the chemistry of aromas, an approach developed and deepened for more than forty years by my colleague and friend, François Chartier, whose theory is based on the identification of the dominant volatile compounds of a food in order to associate it with a wine that shares the same target molecules or has complementary aromatic affinities. For wild mushrooms, one of the most universal key molecules is 1-octen-3-ol, responsible for the typical aroma of fresh mushroom, evoking undergrowth, humus and fresh earth. However, each wild variety has its own molecular nuances, which point to specific pairings. But cooking significantly changes the flavor profile of the mushroom, especially when pan-fried by the Maillard reaction, the non-enzymatic browning process that occurs during cooking of food, which then promotes the development of many flavor compounds, including pyrazines and furfural derivatives, which accentuate notes of roast, toast, peanut and nut, popcorn, coffee, bitter almond, gingerbread, bread crust, toasted cereal, malt, cocoa, and sweet caramel.

Thus, mushrooms also present, depending on the species, the following aromatic compounds:

• 1-octen-3-ol: the "mushroom scent", present in almost all of them.
• 3-octanone: earthy, sometimes floral notes, reminiscent of lavender.
• Benzaldehyde: almond aromas, especially in oyster mushrooms.
• Methyl cinnamate: notes of cinnamon, characteristic of matsutake.
• Sotolon: aromas of maple syrup and curry, especially in the "candy cap" milkcap.
• Sulfur compounds (dimethyl sulphide, thiols): characteristic notes of truffles.

Therefore, in order to harmonize wine and mushrooms, we will look for common or complementary molecular compounds, capable of creating aromatic bridges between the two.

The key compounds to look for in wines will therefore be:

• Sotolon: vin jaune, oloroso sherry, Madeira, aged Sauternes.
• Dimethyl sulphide and methional: notes of truffle and cooked vegetables, which can be found in some aged Pinot Noirs and Syrahs.
• Lactones (γ-decalactone, oak lactone): notes of peach, apricot and coconut.
• Diacetyl: buttery notes, especially associated with malolactic fermentation.
• Rotundone and guaiacol: peppery and smoky notes, especially in some Syrahs and Grüner Veltliners.
• Terpenes (linalool, geraniol): floral and aromatic notes, characteristic of many expressive wines.
• TDN and β-damascenone: notes of petroleum, ripe fruit and cooked fruit, especially in some Rieslings and aged wines.

Mushroom pairings

The effect of cooking

The cooking of mushrooms will play a key role in molecular development as follows:

Cooking method

Step Two:

To achieve the most perfect pairing possible, it is essential to take into consideration the three main aromas that come only from the vegetable bases present in the dish. Thus, you will also have to consider the secondary aromas, which you will be looking to find in the chosen wine, such as those of garlic.

The molecule of cooked garlic

There is not a single molecule, but a chain transformation. The original odorless compound, alliin, is transformed, under the action of an enzyme called alliinase, when raw garlic is crushed or cut. This reaction produces allicin, which is responsible for the pungent and powerful smell of raw garlic. But this molecule, allicin, is unstable and, under the effect of cooking, it breaks down into different sulfur compounds whose flavor profile generally becomes sweeter and more complex. These sulfur compounds belong to large chemical families that are also found in truffles (dimethyl sulphide, thiols) and which contribute to certain aromatic notes of old Pinot Noirs and evolved white Burgundies, so it is a plausible molecular bridge between cooked garlic, truffle and these wines. So, if you decide to cook your wild mushrooms with garlic, a gently roasted garlic, with mild and slightly sweet aromas, will go better with a delicate wine than a sharply pan-fried garlic, whose more pronounced and sometimes bitter sulfur notes will require a more structured wine.

This same logic applies to all other plant flavors added to the dish.

Step Three:

If the body of the wine is normally in harmony with that of the body of the main protein of the dish, in the event that you decide that the mushrooms will be in the center of the plate (vegetarian), then it is their texture, depending on their variety and cooking method, that will determine the body of the wine to favor, and thus, a raw or steamed mushroom will rather require a wine with a light, fresh and crisp body. For mushrooms pan-fried in butter or olive oil, the cooking time will determine their density and texture, more or less tender, firm or fleshy. The wine will then have to follow this same sensation of density and volume in the mouth, depending on the final texture of the mushrooms. We will thus go from a crunchy texture to a more tender and supple flesh, then to a medium density, until a long cooking at high temperature, leading to partial dehydration which will concentrate the matter and give more firmness and chewiness. The body of the wine will therefore have to evolve with this transformation of the texture of the mushrooms.

The sauce:

The color of the sauce, if there is one, should correspond, as much as possible, to the color of the wine chosen. This visual correspondence is a first benchmark, even if the texture, richness and aromatic intensity of the mushrooms remain essential to the final balance of the pairing.

Step Four:

The importance of starch on the plate will guide you on the intensity, more or less marked, of the tannins of wine, so pasta is often associated with mushrooms. Let's take this example to better understand.

In the pasta itself

Dry pasta contains about 70-75% carbohydrates, almost entirely in the form of starch. Once immersed in boiling water, they absorb water, which causes the starch to gelatinize, so the granules swell and their structure changes, making the pasta more tender and its starch more easily digestible. Al dente cooking retains a firmer core and a slightly less accessible starch to digestive enzymes, which generally contributes to a lower glycemic index. During a longer boiling, some of the starch on the surface of the pasta is released into the cooking water, which then becomes slightly cloudy. However, most of the starch remains in the pasta, so the amount actually on the plate will depend mainly on the portion served, the cooking time and the amount of cooking water incorporated into the sauce. This brings us to a key question:

Why does the volume of starch count in your pairings?

Because even if starch is relatively neutral in taste, it changes the balance of the dish by giving it roundness and a coating sensation in the mouth. Thus, a pasta dish accompanied by mushrooms sautéed in butter will appear richer, rounder and more enveloping than mushrooms served alone. This coating sensation can also modify the perception of the astringency of the tannins and the acidity of the wine, depending on the texture and general composition of the dish. In addition, a large quantity of pasta can reduce the perceived aromatic intensity of the mushrooms. The most delicate varieties, such as chanterelles or oyster mushrooms, risk being literally "drowned" by too much pasta. So, be careful to balance the proportions so that the starch accompanies the mushrooms without ever dominating their aromas or personality.

Practical advice

A single bridge is enough. Choose the aromatic compound you want to resonate between the mushroom and the wine, then build your dish around this affinity. But caution is required: if you plan to consume wild mushrooms that you have picked yourself, consume them only after formal identification by a qualified local expert or a competent mycological society.

In closing, I advise you to be careful, because an illusion of knowledge could make you hallucinate... or, even more seriously, make you very sick.

Bon appétit!