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The Feast of the 7 Wines, or The 7 Labors of Bertil
The Feast of the 7 Wines
Or The 7 Labors of Bertil
Once upon a time, long ago, there was a very special number.
Since the dawn of time, humans looked at the sky and noticed seven moving celestial bodies among the fixed stars: the Sun, the Moon, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. These seven lights became guides to count the days and organize time. Thus, was born the seven-day week, a rhythm we still follow today. This number quickly became sacred. In the Bible, God created the world in six days and rested on the seventh, giving rise to the Sabbath, a day of rest and peace. Major festivals and earthly cycles also followed the number 7: some lasted seven days, others were counted in weeks or years, and even the Menorah, the great lamp of the Temple, had seven branches, a symbol of light and harmony. Seven then represented the perfect balance between heaven and earth, the spiritual and the material.
And then, one day, in a world ready to embrace light, the seven dwarfs were born: Doc, Grumpy, Happy, Sleepy, Dopey, Sneezy, and Bashful. Their mission was to protect Snow White (a universal archetype), who embodies purity, fragility, resilience, and justice, a character who faces trials but keeps her heart good, inspiring generations to believe in hope and courage. But above all, she represents the triumph of virtue, as the evil queen is punished and order is restored, reinforcing the moral message: goodness and purity are ultimately rewarded. Moral: being kind always pays off, especially if you survive a poisoned apple.
Finally, the time was ripe to welcome something new and extraordinary.
The 7 Labors of Bertil, hero and son of Bacchus, recount his exploits after being deceived by “Gaule” (France) and committing a tragic act. Bertil must complete twelve labors to atone for his sins, but seven of them are often considered the main ones. These seven principal labors illustrate both strength, courage, and ingenuity, as well as a deeper symbolism. Seven represents a full cycle of trials, purification, and self-mastery, expressed through faith in exceptional American wines, born of responsible artisan winemakers.
To purify himself, Bertil must reveal the 7 wines of the year, representing the Feast of the 7 Wines, or the revelation of the 7 favorites of the Year. Here are the seven wines you need to try between now and the New Year’s, an obligation during the “Twixmas” to purify your fault of your Vino-Europhile belief.
Analemma Winery, Petit Manseng 2021, Columbia Gorge, Oregon
A wine symbolizing the almost superhuman strength of its creator.
From the dramatic landscapes of the Columbia Gorge, Analemma Winery’s 2021 Petit Manseng brilliantly showcases the potential of this southwestern French grape variety in a North American climate when vinified as a single varietal. The nose is intense and expressive, revealing aromas of ripe pear, quince, pineapple, citrus zest, and a floral hint of orange blossom, lifted by subtle spicy and honeyed notes. On the palate, the wine is broad and silky, supported by a lively, structuring acidity characteristic of Petit Manseng. Though the fruit suggests sweetness, the wine is in fact completely dry, its richness perfectly balanced by a mineral tension that brings freshness and length. The finish is persistent, lightly saline, and remarkably pure. Both generous and precise, this wine pairs beautifully with blue cheese soufflé, creamy blue cheeses, spicy cuisine, or rich seafood, and is equally enjoyable on its own to fully appreciate its aromatic complexity.
The 2nd Labor:
Under The Wire Bedrock Vineyard Sparkling Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley, USA
A wine showing that some problems require cunning and perseverance.
This Zinfandel, presented as a sparkling wine made in the traditional method (Champagne method), is singular born from the legendary Bedrock Vineyard, it elegantly challenges conventions. The nose blends crunchy red fruits of wild strawberry, raspberry, pomegranate with hints of cherry, gentle spices, and a floral touch. On the palate, it is lively and energetic, driven by fine bubbles, a crisp acidity, and a delicate texture. Dry, precise, and surprisingly refreshing, it finishes clean and mouthwatering. A joyful, bold, and unmistakably gastronomic wine. This wine pays homage to Agoston Haraszthy (1860) and Ridge Vineyards with their Zin Zin in the 1970s. Paired with Roasted duck with cherry sauce, mushroom risotto, or creamy goat cheese. Its crisp acidity, fine bubbles, and red fruit notes brighten both spicy seafood or vegetarian dishes, and light red berries. desserts offering a joyful gastronomic experience.
The 3rd Labor:
Antiquum Farm Perpetua Album IV Pinot Gris Solera, Lower Long Tom, Willamette Valley, Oregon
An elusive wine, representing patience and mastery of nature.
This exceptional and unique Pinot Gris expresses elegance and complexity. The nose opens with complex aromas of ripe pear, green apple, candied citrus, and delicate floral notes, with a hint of honey and almonds from solera aging. The palate is fresh, round, and subtly textured, supported by balanced acidity and a light salinity that adds tension and length.
It pairs perfectly with lightly grilled seafood, herb-roasted poultry, soft or mild sheep’s milk cheeses, roasted vegetables, and gently spiced dishes. Its structure and freshness also make it enjoyable on its own, accompanied by roasted almonds or macadamia nuts.
The 4th Labor:
Cayuse, Syrah 2019 “Hors Categorie,” Cayuse Vineyard, Walla Walla, Washington
A wine demanding a challenge of strength and strategy.
The Cayuse “Hors Categorie” 2019 is an exceptional wine that reveals remarkable depth. On the nose, it opens with aromas of ripe black fruits, cassis, and blackberries, enhanced by a touch of violet, with subtle spicy notes and smoked bacon. The palate, broad and silky, captivates with fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a long mineral finish. Unlike other Syrahs from Christophe Baron, this wine, thanks to its suppleness, is ready to be enjoyed now. It pairs wonderfully with grilled red meats, herb-roasted rack of lamb, or gently spiced stews, as well as with aged cheeses, such as strong blue cheeses.
The 5th Labor:
Hermann J. Wiemer Winery, Lemberger 2017, Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes, New York
A wine requiring an impossible task, symbolizing purification.
The Hermann J. Wiemer Lemberger 2017, from the shores of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes, is an elegant and structured red wine. The nose opens with empyreumatic aromas and ripe red fruits like black cherry, raspberry accompanied by peppery, slightly smoky notes and herbal hints reminiscent of thyme and rosemary. The palate, with a velvety texture, shows fine tannins and lively acidity, giving freshness and tension. The finish is persistent, with a subtle mineral character and hints of cocoa and gentle spices. This wine pairs beautifully with grilled or roasted game meats, stews such as goulash, beef bourguignon or gently spiced tagines, mildly sharp semi-hard cheeses, as well as roasted or grilled white roots vegetables, peppers, mushrooms seasoned with aromatic herbs.
The 6th Labor:
Popelouchum Vineyard, Grenache Gris & Grenache Blanc 2022, San Benito, Central Coast, CA
A wine representing mastery over possible chaos.
This wine, produced by the renowned Randall Grahm at Popelouchum Vineyard in San Benito – Central Coast, California, is a blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, vinified with a very short skin maceration. It is a complex and luminous white wine. On the nose, it opens with aromas of white peach, ripe pear, white flowers, and candied citrus, with subtle mineral and herbal hints. The palate is fresh and elegant, combining a round texture with vibrant acidity, offering harmonious balance and a long, saline finish. This wine pairs perfectly with grilled fish, seafood, herb-roasted poultry, light Mediterranean dishes, or Thai and Vietnamese dish.
The 7th Labor:
Johan Vineyards, “Galant,” Fortified Pinot Noir, Van Duzer Corridor, Willamette Valley, OR
A wine embodying domination over nature and the fear of failure.
The Johan Vineyards “Galant” Fortified Pinot Noir is a rich and elegant fortified wine. On the nose, it opens with aromas of ripe red berries, complemented by notes of dried fig, baking spices, and subtle hints of oak and cocoa. The palate is luscious and velvety, with fine tannins balanced by vibrant acidity, giving a harmonious structure and a long, warm finish. This wine pairs beautifully with milk chocolate desserts, berry tarts, nut-based pastries, foie gras, aged cheeses such as blue or gouda, and spiced desserts like gingerbread or cinnamon pastries. It can also be enjoyed on its own as a contemplative dessert wine to pray that something so delicious exists.
And the 5 others:
Sparkling: Westport Rivers Winery, RJR 2019, Westport, MA
Orange: Extra-dimensional Wine Co, Mountain Echoes 2022, Mariana's & Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone, Monterey County, CA
Red: Lange Winery Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014, Willamette Valley, OR
Red: Jolie Laide Cabernet Pfeffer 2024, Lime Kiln Valley, CA
Sake: Arizona Sake, Junmai Ginjo Aged Sake, Holbrook, AR
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