Vol. 39 - "Is Frankenstein in the Vineyard?"

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Second Part of:

Book of Bertil 38

Is Frankenstein in the Vineyard?

CHAPTER 1.0

Verse 38.1: Vines, Grape Varieties, Cultivars, Hybrids, Clones, GMOs

As promised, here is the second part of the June 5 Newsletter, Vol. #38, “Soil, Climate, and DNA.” This week, we’ll explore the world of the vine and its agrological and agronomic vocabulary, to better understand the evolution of the wine in your glass today.

38.1.01 The Genealogy of the Vine

The modern vine, the one that survived the great ice ages, belongs to the botanical family Vitaceae. The genus Vitis includes all vine species, formerly grouped under Ampelidaceae. In the wild, vines grow in three main regions: the Americas, Asia, and Europe. The European and West-Asian vine, Vitis vinifera, also known as the “wine vine,” is the wild ancestor of most cultivated vines today. Between 5,000 and 6,000 Vitis vinifera varieties are used globally for wine production. Other wild species include:

In the Americas: Vitis riparia, Vitis rupestris, Vitis labrusca, Vitis berlandieri

In Asia: Vitis amurensis, Vitis coignetiae, Vitis ficifolia.

Thanks to their genetic resistance to phylloxera, these wild species are widely used as rootstocks for ancient and modern Vitis vinifera varieties.

38.1.02 From Cultivated Vine to Grape Variety

The cultivated vine, Vitis vinifera subsp. vinifera, is a domesticated form of the wild vine. One of its key features is being hermaphroditic, each plant bears both male and female flowers. Over more than 6,500 years, humans selected vines for traits like larger berries, better flavor, or disease resistance, propagating them via cuttings or seeds. This led to the emergence of the first grape varieties, or cultivars, a term for plant varieties created and maintained by cultivation.

38.1.03 The Rise of Hybrids

A hybrid vine results from crossing two different varieties. These can be naturally occurring or purposefully created to combine desirable traits such as disease resistance, climate adaptability, or higher yields. Even Pliny the Elder (30–79 AD) mentioned nearly a hundred such hybrids in his Natural History. Natural hybrids, often labeled “subsp., result from spontaneous crossings between cultivars that escaped vineyards. These were then reselected and propagated by humans. Controlled hybrids, on the other hand, result from the deliberate pollination of one variety using the pollen of another. Hybridization was heavily used in the late 19th century to combat phylloxera, crossing European vinifera with resistant American species. Each hybrid carries its own DNA, but planting its seeds would yield variable offspring. Therefore, humans rely on grafting or cuttings to preserve its identity.

CHAPTER 2.0

Verse 38.2: The Clone: The First Step Toward a "Frankenstein" Vine

Some grape varieties, such as Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, show high variability due to age and accumulated mutations. Over time, humans selected individuals with desirable traits specific aromas, adaptation to terroir, and multiplied them. Scientists later discovered that these “different” vines were actually clones of the same grape variety. Today, these clones are carefully cataloged—the Pinot Noir alone has over 100 registered clones.

38.2.01 Clonal Propagation: Asexual Reproduction

Vitis can reproduce through vegetative propagation, a form of cloning, just like strawberries, linden trees, or blackberries.

This can be done through:

Layering (Marcottage)
A natural process where a vigorous, healthy, flowerless shoot near the base is bent into the soil. Secured with a clip and covered, it takes root and is then separated from the mother plant. The new vine is genetically identical to the original.

Cuttings (Bouturage)
Unlike layering, cuttings involve separating a vine shoot (cane) from the parent and planting it directly in the soil to grow roots. It can fruit in its first year, but is vulnerable to soil-borne pathogens, like phylloxera. This is why, after the 1860 phylloxera crisis, most Vitis vines are now grafted.

Massal vs. Clonal Selection

Grafting

Both involve grafting, inserting a chosen vine shoot onto a genetically different rootstock:

A Massal selection uses cuttings from several vines in a vineyard, preserving genetic diversity.

As the Clonal selection use by multiplying one carefully selected vine with known traits.

In conclusion Massal promotes diversity, clonal offers consistency.

38.2.02 The Frankenstein Metaphor

Just like in the novel, grafting assembles different parts: a resilient root, a fruitful scion. The goal is to combine the best of both worlds, soil resistance and fruit quality. But remember in the story, Dr. Frankenstein lost control of his creation… after using a criminal’s brain.

38.2.03 And if the “Creation” was a GMO?

The genetic manipulation of grapevines using GMOs (genetically modified organisms) involves introducing one or more genes from another organism into the grapevine's genome to give it new traits. This technique relies on transgenesis: the desired gene (e.g. for disease resistance or drought tolerance) is inserted into grapevine cells using vectors, often bacteria like Agrobacterium tumefaciens. The modified cells are then cultured in the lab to regenerate whole plants. The main goal is to improve resistance to diseases such as downy mildew or powdery mildew, thereby reducing the need for pesticides. But can also targeting specific factors like, drought resistance, spectrum aromatic of the fruit etc... Although promising from an agronomic perspective, this method raises ethical, environmental, and commercial concerns.

Conclusion

The debate I had with my guest during this tasting was about the manipulation and genetic transformation of the vine, and therefore the true definition of the word clone. And even if she kindly laughed in my face, claiming that the vine wasn't Frankenstein, I hope I’ve shown you that it actually is. I’d even go so far as to say that, in some cases, certain wines are the fruit of Dolly by John Gurdon. And the real question is “To be drunk or not to Be drunk” ?

Mr. B

*Memorandum: