Vol. 41 - "New England Wine"

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In Order to Know Who You Are, Know Where You Come From

The History of Viticulture in Massachusetts and Rhode Island

Book of Bertil 41

INTRODUCTION

Between climate challenges and viticultural resilience

Viticulture in Massachusetts and Rhode Island is a little-known story, but one deeply marked by resilience. From the first European settlers to contemporary winemakers, these two states have had to deal with a difficult climate, repeated failures, and a long eclipse caused by Prohibition. However, thanks to the influence of pioneers, including some French Huguenots, and the revival initiated since the 1970s, a cool-climate viticulture, artisanal and rooted in its territory, is developing today. This article concisely retraces the main stages of this singular adventure, between colonial memory, agronomic challenges and the oenological renaissance.

New England

The history of viticulture in New England, particularly in the states of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, is above all a story of perseverance: perseverance in the face of a capricious climate, vine diseases, repeated failures. A story of reinvention, of deep attachment to the land, and today, of a renewal carried out by passionate winegrowers. These two states are not among the emblematic figures of the American wine panorama, but thanks to the stubbornness of Huguenots who fled religious oppression in France, they have a winemaking tradition that dates back to the early colonial times.

The colonial beginnings: a transplanted European dream

From the arrival of the British colonists in the seventeenth century, the cultivation of vines was part of the agricultural ambitions. Inspired by the European winemaking tradition, the English colonists soon hoped to produce their own wine. In the Massachusetts Bay Colony charter of 1629, there are even explicit incentives to plant vines. All landowners had to plant a minimum of 50 vines or lose their rights of use. But the first attempts almost always failed. European grape varieties (Vitis vinifera), such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Muscat, are not resistant to harsh winters, humid summers, local fungal diseases, or native pests such as phylloxera. Acidic and rocky soils further complicate the task. However, the settlers did not give up. They then experimented with indigenous vines, in particular Vitis labrusca, which is more resistant, but produces wines with a so-called "foxy" taste, little appreciated by European palates. It was the Concord grape variety, developed in the nineteenth century by Ephraim Bull in Concord (Massachusetts), that would become the emblem of this first subsistence viticulture.

The Huguenots in Massachusetts: a discreet but founding influence

Often forgotten, the Huguenot presence in Massachusetts is an important chapter in this history. Although their numbers were more limited than in New York or South Carolina, the Huguenots left a significant cultural and agricultural imprint.

After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, several French Protestant families found refuge in the Puritan colonies of New England, particularly in Oxford and Salem. About forty families settled on land granted by the colony and developed agriculture, crafts and religious life. Although they did not find a wine industry as such, their influence was exerted in the transmission of know-how: grafting, pruning, fermentation techniques. Their presence has also helped to normalize the consumption of wine in an environment mainly focused on beer, cider or rum. In some areas, such as Worcester County or southeastern Massachusetts, their cultural heritage inspired a revival of winemaking in the twentieth century.

Rhode Island: Microclimates and Huguenot Memory

Smaller Rhode Island was nevertheless an early refuge for religious minorities. A few dozen Huguenot families settled in Newport and East Greenwich at the end of the seventeenth century. They brought their agricultural know-how with them, but few remained permanently, slowed down by a harsh climate and complex logistical conditions. Nevertheless, the terroir of Rhode Island, particularly around Narragansett Bay, is more favorable to the cultivation of vines, thanks to a temperate maritime microclimate and well-drained soils. Although, unlike in South Carolina, there is no record of a large Huguenot farm, some historians believe that they introduced a European wine culture into Anglo-Protestant circles. They are said to have experimented with hybrids from local vines, tried to acclimatize a few grape varieties from France, and influenced the subsequent wine boom in Connecticut or New York State from a distance.

Places like Newport or East Greenwich are sometimes cited as bridges between European heritage and the pioneers of the nineteenth century. Few current estates claim this heritage, but local archives and historical societies, such as the Huguenot Society of America preserve traces of this presence.

Prohibition: a brutal halt

As everywhere in the United States, viticulture in New England was stopped dead in its tracks by Prohibition (1920-1933). The few vineyards closed. Only a few ornamental vines or vines for domestic use remained, as production was tolerated on a very small scale for the production of wine for religious purposes.

The wine revival: from the 1970s to the present day

It was not until the 1970s that structured viticulture was reborn. California's boom is capturing attention, but a handful of Northeastern enthusiasts see it as an opportunity to innovate. Thanks to hybrid grape varieties and oenological progress, a cool-climate viticulture is finally becoming viable. In Massachusetts, Westport Rivers Winery (1982) and Truro Vineyards (1992) are among the pioneers. The southeast of the state, close to the ocean, enjoys a mild climate, ideal for sparkling wines with good acidity. Rhode Island has followed a similar trajectory, led by Newport Vineyards (1977), Greenvale Vineyards, and Sakonnet Vineyard (1975).

Challenges and promises of the twenty-first century

Today, viticulture in Massachusetts and Rhode Island remains modest — between 15 and 30 active estates per state, but it is distinguished by its dynamism, its diversity, and a strong artisanal identity. Climate change even makes it possible to consider more delicate grape varieties, such as Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. At the same time, regenerative and organic practices are emerging, driven by a new generation concerned with sustainability. Wine tourism is developing rapidly, thanks to the proximity of Boston and Providence: tastings, concerts, weddings... The estates are integrated into the local cultural life.

CONCLUSION

From a thwarted dream to a renewed promise, Massachusetts and Rhode Island viticulture embodies a form of resilience and creativity. Far from the classic terroirs, it offers a fresh, artisanal, committed climate wine, rooted in history. At a time when the wine world is looking for new paths, the understated yet authentic New England wine region is worth a look.

Appendix

Massachusetts Wineries

North of Boston / North Shore

• 1634 Meadery (Ipswich) – Specializing in artisanal mead made from local ingredients. Tastings very much appreciated.
• Aaronap Cellars (Westford/Lancaster, Chace Hill Vineyard) – Innovative wines produced from local grapes and regional partners.
• Russell Orchards & Winery (Ipswich) – A family-owned winery combining orchard, fruit picking, cider making and wine production.
• Willow Spring Vineyards (Haverhill) – A small, peaceful vineyard with a warm, artisanal vibe.

Boston, South Boston, Cape Cod & Islands

• Marzae Wines (Acton) – Committed producer specializing in natural wine, with a minimalist approach.
• Truro Vineyards & South Hollow Spirits (Cape Cod, Truro) – A winery that blends wine production and artisanal distilling.
• Cape Cod Winery (Falmouth) – Fruity, approachable wines in a relaxed seaside setting.
• Nantucket Vineyard – A small, viable vineyard with a unique coastal microclimate on the nearby island of Martha's Vineyard.

Bristol County / Southeast

• Westport Rivers Winery (Westport) – Renowned for its traditional method sparkling wines and expressive still wines, influenced by the ocean's proximity.
• Running Brook Vineyard & Winery (Dartmouth) – A 14-acre vineyard that is carefully cultivated, offering wines with a variety of profiles.
• Plymouth Bay Winery (Plymouth) – Tastings, tours and events within walking distance of the city's historic sites.
• 1620 Winery (Cordage Park, Plymouth) – Housed in a 19th-century building, this winery focuses on elegant wines and a historic setting.
• The Cantina Winery (Franklin) – A small, artisan structure in the southern part of the state, known for its consistent quality.

Central and Western Massachusetts

• Hardwick Vineyard & Winery (Hardwick, Worcester County) – Restored estate with bucolic charm, nestled in the central countryside.
• Balderdash Cellars (Richmond, Berkshires) – A small, high-end winery, making its wines from California grapes.
• Black Birch Vineyard (Hatfield, Pioneer Valley) – Carefully crafted, handcrafted wines.
• Les Trois Emme Vineyard and Winery (New Marlborough) – Family estate inspired by European tradition, in the rural west.
• Glendale Ridge Vineyard (Southampton) – Consistently featured in the state's top winery farm selections.
• Agronomy Farm Vineyard (Oakham) – Small winery located in the heart of Massachusetts.

Rhode Island Wineries

• Sakonnet Vineyard (Little Compton) – One of the oldest estates in the state (1975), known for its elegant whites and rosés, in a stunning coastal setting.
• Newport Vineyards (Middletown, Aquidneck Island) – Iconic estate founded by the Nunes brothers. A must-see place in the Rhodian vineyards.
• Greenvale Vineyards (Portsmouth, Aquidneck Island) – Family estate since 1863, converted to viticulture in the 1980s. Wines with character.
• Diamond Hill Vineyards (Cumberland) – A small estate in the upstate that is popular for its fruity wines and friendly atmosphere.
• Nickle Creek Vineyard (Foster) – Rustic vineyard on a human scale, in the middle of the inland countryside.
• Leyden Farm Vineyard & Winery (West Greenwich) – Welcoming estate, known for its events and easy-drinking wines.
• Mulberry Vineyards (Chepachet) – A small, discreet but active property, producing local vintages in a rural environment.