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Gamay Noir

This child prodigy who became the black sheep

Book of Bertil # 58

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Introduction

So badly managed and misunderstood for more than six centuries

There was a time when people wanted to snatch it. Today, it is being snapped up. The story of Gamay Noir with white juice is one of patient revenge, waged for nearly six centuries against prejudices, royal decrees, the contempt of certain connoisseurs and cheap marketing campaigns, and yet today it has become the prince of the Americas.

CHAPTER 1.0

Verse 58.1.01: Its birth

While it is now certain that it was born in Burgundy from a natural cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, a great progenitor that is now almost extinct, it is also clear that its existence in Burgundy is very ancient. However, little is known about Gamay before the fourteenth century. Its name appears for the first time in texts around 1350, associated with a hamlet of the same name near Saint-Aubin, in the Côte de Beaune in the Duchy of Burgundy. But before the edict of Philip the Bold, Gamay did not yet have a really significant history. It simply grows, mixed with other grape varieties, in vineyards where the very notion of a single grape variety is not yet the norm.

Verse 58.1.02: The black sheep of Burgundy

This jovial grape variety was first of all, in 1395, the victim of Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, who signed an edict demanding the uprooting and destruction of this grape variety on the lands of wine-growing Burgundy, Gamay being described as a "very bad and very disloyal plant". But what is the crime of this grape variety?

This story began more than two centuries earlier, when Aquitaine came under English rule in 1152, with the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry Plantagenet, future King of England, crowned Henry II in 1154. This marriage attached this immense duchy, which covered a large part of present-day southwestern France, including the Bordeaux region, to the English crown. This union had major and lasting economic consequences that opened up the English market to Bordeaux wines and gradually transformed a rural viticulture into a transactional viticulture, giving rise to an intense river and sea trade between Bordeaux and England. (This trade lasted nearly three centuries, until the end of the Hundred Years' War in 1453) At that time, France was divided into duchies and the different families were fighting for power over the territory, so the decree of 1395 was not simply born of a judgment of aristocratic taste, but of a very concrete political and economic context.

Verse 58.1.03: Money already rules the world

A very economic reality

Since 1348, the Black Death had devastated Burgundy's workforce, and the epidemic had killed nearly a third of the population and the vines were short of manpower. In this context, Gamay, an early and generous grape variety, becomes extremely tempting because it grows more easily, produces more and requires less care than Pinot Noir, which is much more fragile and demanding, so winemakers begin to massively replace Pinot with Gamay. From their point of view, it is a perfectly rational economic decision, with more yield, less work and more reliable harvests in a period of widespread food shortage. However, when we take the time to reread the text of the Duke of Burgundy's edict, it is revealing to note that Philip the Bold did not first invoke taste, contrary to what legend would later have us believe. In particular, he mentions excessive yields that could deplete the land and, above all, cause unprecedented economic damage.

Verse 58.1.04: Several motivations are intertwined

In the first place, there was a question of ground rent. The duke and the large ecclesiastical landowners, whose immense Burgundy vineyards were owned by the Catholic Church at the time, derived a significant part of their income from the sale of wine. But also Gamay wines, which were considered inferior, directly threatened the commercial value of Burgundy wines on export markets, particularly in Flanders and England, crucial outlets for the ducal economy. But for Philip the Bold, it was also a question of building a real prestigious identity.

In the midst of a project of political affirmation, the Duchy of Burgundy wanted to compete with the crown of France itself, and wine then became a diplomatic instrument, offered to princes and used in negotiations. Philip the Bold was convinced that a homogeneous and prestigious vineyard served this ambition and that a "bastard" vineyard, mixing Gamay and Pinot Noir, served it.

It is therefore not so much that Gamay produces an objectively bad wine, it produces above all a different wine, more rustic and above all more abundant, at a time when the Burgundian nobility is precisely seeking to build the rarity and prestige of Pinot Noir as markers of economic and political distinction. Gamay will thus pay the price for having been the grape variety of popular survival in the face of a grape variety that has gradually become an aristocratic symbol.

It was therefore torn from the Côte-d'Or and migrated to the Beaujolais region, where it lived a relatively quiet existence for nearly 250 years.

Verse 58.1.05: The new black plague "industrialization"

There, Gamay wine became the companion of Lyon's bistros and canteens, a counter wine that was drunk young, fresh, without pretense. This proximity to popular conviviality gradually forged its image, that of a nice wine, but not very serious and above all inexpensive. The twentieth century sealed this reputation with the advent of Beaujolais Nouveau, an almost diabolical marketing phenomenon imagined in the post-war period, which flooded the world, every third Thursday in November, with a primeur, fruity and immediate wine. A commercial triumph that paradoxically became an image trap and also contributed to a qualitative deterioration of part of the wine-growing land, a consequence of an excessive search for production and a massive use of chemicals authorized at the time.

Verse 58.1.06: It took decades for the grape variety to emerge from this reputation

Gamay will therefore experience a new crossing of the desert, and the 1990s and 2000s will be cruel for it. The market is getting tired of the New, volumes are collapsing, and some winegrowers are tearing up their plots. Gamay then seems doomed to become nothing more than a souvenir of a wine funfair, the caricatural shadow of what it could really offer.

Verse 58.1.07: Redemption through the Crus

It was in this adversity that a generation of winemakers reinvented the grape variety by sublimating the quality and typicity of the ten Beaujolais crus: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly. These crus then became the laboratory of a new ambition, with more careful vinification, controlled yields, ageing on wood, plot selections and much more precise work in the vineyard. And finally, this Burgundy Gamay reveals a depth that has long been unsuspected. For example, wines such as those of Marcel Lapierre, a pioneer of the natural movement, or Jean Foillard demonstrate that this grape variety can reach a complexity capable of competing with that of certain much more expensive Burgundy wines.

CHAPTER 2.0

Verse 58.2.01: Gamay has never been limited to the Beaujolais region

We think we know Gamay because we know Beaujolais, and that is a mistake.

A much larger geography has been built up over time. In the Loire, the Touraine appellation allows it as a single variety, particularly on limestone soils that give it a different tension from that of Beaujolais granite. Further upstream, the Côtes du Forez and the Côte Roannaise, on volcanic soils near Saint-Étienne, reveal a surprisingly mineral Gamay, far removed from the primeur style that has long confined it to a single box. Auvergne extends this volcanic vein with its Côtes d'Auvergne, in particular Chanturgue, Madargue and Boudes, which are still relatively unknown but closely followed by wine lovers. Further south, the Coteaux du Lyonnais are a natural extension of Beaujolais, while the Ardèche is seeing the flourishing of varietal vintages carried by a new generation of producers who are adept at more natural winemaking. In Savoie and Bugey, the grape variety adapts to the Alpine terrain to produce wines of an almost airy freshness. But the strongest symbol is undoubtedly its return to Burgundy, where the Coteaux Bourguignons appellation, created in 2011, now authorises Gamay to once again tread the land from which it had once been hunted.

Verse 58.2.02: Soil and its effects

Beaujolais has several levels of appellations because the region is not geologically homogeneous.

The south is mainly based on flatter clay-limestone soils, while the north, the "Haut-Beaujolais", is based more on granite and schist soils on the hillsides. This difference in terroir produces wines of very different quality, structure and character. It is therefore the geology: granite, schist, volcanic rock or clay-limestone, and the exposure that profoundly shape the style of Gamay. In Beaujolais, we can thus go from light and floral wines in certain areas such as Fleurie or Chiroubles to much more powerful and tannic expressions in Moulin-à-Vent or Morgon. But the grape variety is obviously not limited to this region.

Granite remains its most emblematic historical terroir of Beaujolais, Forez, Lyonnais and brings structure and substance. The volcanic soils of Auvergne, Côte de Brouilly, Roannaise often give it more minerality and sometimes a smoky character. The limestone soils of the Loire, Burgundy, and Savoie tend towards more lightness, tension and liveliness. This diversity of soils largely explains why a grape variety long reduced to a simple "counter wine" can now compete in complexity with much more prestigious appellations.

Verse 58.2.03: Six centuries later, the circle is complete.

And this Tour de France confirms what the best Beaujolais crus had already demonstrated that Gamay: is a formidable indicator of terroir, capable of restoring limestone, granite or volcanic rock with very different expressions. A plasticity that was still rarely recognized a few decades ago and which completes the denial of the harsh judgment of a duke perhaps in a little too much of a hurry to judge.

Comparative table: Soils and typicities of Gamay in France

Region	Soil	Style
The ten Beaujolais crus Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly	Granite, schist, volcanic, clay-limestone (varying by cru)	From light and floral (Fleurie, Chiroubles) to structured and age-worthy (Moulin-à-Vent, Morgon)
Burgundy Coteaux Bourguignons	Limestone, clay	Light, tense, mineral — a return to the land from which it was banished
Loire Valley Touraine, Cheverny	Limestone, clay-silex	Fresh, lively, mineral tension distinct from Beaujolais granite
Massif Central Côtes d'Auvergne, Côtes du Forez, Côte Roannaise	Volcanic, granite	Mineral, sometimes smoky, very different from primeur style
Rhône Valley and outskirts Coteaux du Lyonnais, Ardèche	Varied — granite, limestone, volcanic	Natural winemaking focus; often lively and fruit-forward
Savoie / Bugey	Alpine limestone, glacial	Airy, fresh, almost ethereal — unique Alpine expression

CHAPTER 3.0

Verse 58.3.01: The Clones

As with all grape varieties, a more or less important variety of clones exists, so behind the apparent unity of the Gamay grape variety hides a little-known clonal diversity, which silently structures the quality of Beaujolais wines and elsewhere. The 509 clone is a historical reference, often used as a benchmark to compare other selections, thanks to a balance deemed satisfactory between yield and quality. Alongside it, a family of more productive clones, such as 222, 358 and 787, has long dominated part of the vineyard. They were planted to meet the volume demand of the post-war period and Beaujolais Nouveau, thanks to their regularity and their compromise between yield and quality, but generally with less aromatic concentration. Faced with this logic of volume, a more recent and more demanding selection has gradually emerged, driven by clones considered to be of higher quality. 1169, early and not very productive, is of particular interest in certain areas exposed to botrytis. 1170, sometimes described as "Auvergne type", has larger bunches but a later maturity, with a phenolic composition considered equal to or superior to that of 509. It is sought after more for quality than for yield. Finally, 1227, with its small, loose and often Millerand bunches, combines low sensitivity to botrytis and wines regularly appreciated in tasting. It is now one of the clones sought after by some particularly demanding winemakers.

This bipolarity between production clones and precision clones ultimately tells the story of the evolution of the grape variety itself, and rather than systematically relying on a single clone, many winemakers voluntarily assemble several clones in the same plot, seeking to gain aromatic complexity while spreading the risks associated with maturity dates or different susceptibilities to diseases. An empirical and pragmatic approach, quite far from the extremely individualized clonal selection that often characterizes Pinot Noir in Burgundy. A sign, once again, that Gamay retains even in its relationship with the vine this popular and pragmatic identity that has long made its reputation before, finally, becoming one of its assets.

Verse 58.3.02: Gamay and its clones in the United States

The history of American Gamay clones is interesting and relatively well documented. The first Gamay clones arrived in Oregon in the 1970s and 1980s, close to the introduction of many French plant materials related to Pinot Noir. A first set of clones was planted, including clone #221, before being distributed to various growers such as Adelsheim or Richard Sommer in Oregon. Over time, clones #282 and #284 proved to be more interesting than #221, laying part of the foundation for Gamay Noir plantations in the Willamette Valley, and then clone #358 became one of Oregon's iconic clones. The first plantation of the "Due East" block at Brick House, in 2011, was composed entirely of this clone where it is described as capable of producing grapes with relatively high sugar levels and wines that are structured, balanced and aromatically rich, and can be enjoyed young as well as after a few years of aging. It can also be found today in other estates, especially in the Chehalem Mountains AVA.

Verse 58.3.03: These clones are mainly grown in Oregon on two major soil families.

Marine sedimentary soils, especially of the Willakenzie type, poor and well-drained, can produce elegant and fragrant wines, with red fruits, spices and relatively silky tannins. As for volcanic soils, especially of the Jory type, they generally bring more structure and concentration.

Verse 58.3.04: Gamay in the United States, beyond Oregon

While Oregon remains by far the main focus of American Gamay, driven in particular by its dedicated festival, "I Love Gamay", in Portland, the grape variety remains much more anecdotal elsewhere in the country, as it too has suffered from a confused identity that has long been poorly attributed. In the United States, and in California in particular, the word Gamay has a history of its own, long maintained by a series of ampelographic and commercial confusions.

For decades, another French grape variety, Valdiguié, was called "Napa Gamay", used until the 1980s to produce light reds in a style reminiscent of Beaujolais. Administratively, some of this vagueness has persisted for a long time in some agricultural statistics. Today, there are also real plots of Gamay in different regions of California, notably in Santa Barbara County, and in the Sonoma Coast, where some producers make confidential but qualitatively very interesting vintages. Gamay has therefore, once again, spent generations having to fight against an identity that was not always its own.

Verse 58.3.05: A niche grape variety, carried by enthusiasts

The common feature of these American establishments remains their confidential and almost militant character. Those who produce Gamay are generally passionate winemakers, sometimes visionary, who defend a grape variety still perceived as the "prince" in the face of the "king" that is still Pinot Noir in a large part of the American imagination. Gamay can also be used occasionally in certain blends, in particular to bring fruit and color. In short, American Gamay has long remained a two-speed story. An establishment driven more by the curiosity and conviction of a handful of winemakers than by a real structured appellative recognition. But today, the rise of "natural" wines has contributed to the flourishing of a new image of this grape variety made in the USA.

CHAPTER 4.0

Verse 58.4.01: Carbonic and semi-carbonic fermentation:

Gamay's friend, or new enemy

Contrary to popular belief, carbonic maceration is not an ancestral practice of Beaujolais, but a technique whose scientific understanding and formalization are much more recent. The work of Michel Flanzy in the 1930s, particularly on the preservation of grapes in a carbonic atmosphere, contributed to the understanding and development of the process. But it was especially from the middle of the twentieth century that this technique really took off in the Beaujolais, which took it up and perfected it to the point of becoming almost synonymous with it. Modern carbonic maceration then became intimately associated with Gamay and the light to medium-bodied wines of Beaujolais, and it is thanks in particular to the wines made from these techniques, and especially to the phenomenon of Beaujolais Nouveau, that the international reputation of the region exploded in the second half of the twentieth century. The commercial demand for a "primeur" wine, ready to be consumed only a few weeks after harvest, naturally favored the generalization of this method, which was perfectly suited to this need for speed. A technique that was then widely used, sometimes excessively, by certain winemakers in the world of "natural" wines, particularly in the United States. In addition to allowing a rapid market launch, this technique can also produce an immediately attractive aromatic profile, which is likely, when used indiscriminately, to take over the raw material and the expression of the terroir.

Verse 58.4.02 Why is this technique so suitable for Gamay?

It erases some of its tannic rusticity

Gamay, a grape variety with a relatively thin skin but which can sometimes present a certain astringency when vinified in the traditional way, easily gains in flexibility with this process. Intracellular fermentation and the particular management of the bunches limit tannic extraction, and the result is rounder wines, immediately accessible, easy to drink young and devoid of excessive harshness.

Verse 58.4.03 It enhances an instantly recognizable aromatic profile

This is undoubtedly one of the major reasons for its success. Carbonic maceration can generate very characteristic aromas of banana, English candy, kirsch and exuberant red fruits, amplifying the naturally generous fruity character of the grape variety. It is precisely these notes that have ended up defining the style of Beaujolais Nouveau and, for a long time, becoming the global olfactory signature of Gamay in the eyes of the consumer.

Verse 58.4.04 It is in keeping with the precocity of the grape variety

Gamay ripens relatively early and produces particularly juicy grapes. This technique enhances healthy, juicy grapes, exploiting this varietal characteristic rather than trying to combat it.

Verse 58.4.05 It responds to a historic commercial and economic imperative

Beaujolais Nouveau must be bottled and marketed very quickly after the harvest, traditionally from the third Thursday in November. Carbonic maceration therefore makes it possible to produce ready-to-drink wines in an extremely short time, without the need for prolonged ageing.

A commercial constraint to which this method responds almost perfectly.

Verse 58.4.06 A technique that is now being questioned by French and American purists

Paradoxically, the technical signature that has contributed to the popular success of Gamay is also the one that has long nourished its image as a simple and unpretentious wine. This is why part of the generation of winemakers who have participated in the rehabilitation of Beaujolais crus and, more recently, of the grape variety in the United States, have gradually turned away from full carbonic maceration. Some prefer longer semi-carbonic macerations. Others are returning to more classic vinification, with whole bunches or partial destemming, and sometimes maturation in barrels. This technical evolution ultimately sums up quite well the progress made by the grape variety. After having been exploited for decades through a flattering, immediate and extremely commercial technique, Gamay is now seeking to find a vinification capable of revealing the terroir rather than letting the process dominate the matter, and as if it must, once again, turn against what had made it famous to prove that it could perfectly do without it.

And to thumb his nose at this Duke of Burgundy one last six centuries later, if... "Bold".

CHAPTER 5.0

Verse 58.5.01: What to eat with Gamay wines

Gamay is a versatile wine at the table thanks to its fruit, lively acidity and generally supple tannins. It's perfect for aperitifs as well as for more substantial dishes.

Verse 58.5.02: For Beaujolais Nouveau and semi-carbonic style wines: Look for simple, convivial and light-weight cuisine, with salty, creamy and supple textures that accompany the crisp fruit and freshness of the wine. Such as a platter of fine charcuterie, country pâté, cured ham, pickles and sourdough bread, or a selection of sweet Tomme cheese and fresh goat's cheese, accompanied by walnuts and toast and fresh cherries or figs.

Verse 58.1.01: What to eat by soil type

Limestone-Marne: Look for a fine, fresh, and slightly creamy cuisine, with enough texture to accompany the tension of the wine without weighing down its minerality. Like a roast chicken with light cream, melty leeks, and potatoes. Or a shallow New England clam chowder, with light smoked bacon and oyster crackers.

Limestone-Clays-Flint: Look for flavorful cuisine, slightly smoky or grilled, with some depth but plenty of freshness. Like a grilled pork, roasted root vegetables, and light herb jus. Or a smoked turkey sandwich, pickles, sweet mustard, and roasted potatoes.

Clay-Limestone-Sand: Look for a supple, delicate and light cuisine, with tender textures and lightly toasted flavors that respect the fruit and the finesse of the wine. Like a grilled chicken, roasted vegetables and light rosemary juice. Or a grilled chicken sandwich, vinegared coleslaw and traditional cornbread.

Volcanic-Basalt: Look for a more intense, smoky, grilled cuisine, with enough character to accompany the depth and tension often associated with these wines. Like braised pork, grilled vegetables, and a slightly smoky juice. Or low-sugar BBQ pork ribs, baked beans, and grilled corn.

Granitic: Look for simple, fresh and very tasty cuisine, with grilled, herbs and few heavy sauces to preserve the energy and precision of the wine. Like a grilled pork rib, mushrooms and potatoes with herbs. Or a simple smash burger, grilled onions, pickles and mild cheddar.

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I always accept that others have the full right and duty to challenge me, to argue, and, if it is necessary, excommunicate me from their beliefs (often dull and hollow) because I would act the same way if it were the other way around.

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