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Drink Against the Current

The Bonde Blog

April 2026

Which came first
The Ham or the Lamb?

Soon, we will gather to celebrate spring and Easter around the table, with family or friends, ready to welcome one of the timeless classics of the holiday: Easter ham or lamb. Although domestic pork was introduced to North America in the 17th and 18th centuries by European settlers, it was not until the 19th century that ham became a true Easter symbol in the United States. In rural areas, festive meals were built around available and easily preserved foods, and ham naturally established itself through two major culinary traditions: "country ham" and "city ham."

The Two Hams

"Country ham" comes from traditional Southern rural practices, where meat was salted, cured, and aged for several months to survive the winter. Its bold, very salty, and sometimes smoky flavor makes it a product full of character, often served in thin slices with biscuits, honey, or fruit preserves that soften its intensity.

In contrast, "city ham," widely embraced in Northeastern households, reflects more modern lifestyles. A brined, tender ham, often pre-cooked and spiral-sliced, it has become the icon of the contemporary Easter meal. Popularized in the 20th century by companies like The Honey Baked Ham Company, it stands out for its sweet glazes as honey, brown sugar, or sometimes even pineapple, creating that beloved sweet-and-salty contrast. Served with mashed potatoes, spring vegetables, or deviled eggs, it embodies a cuisine that is convivial, approachable, and deeply rooted in modern American culture.

The Black Sheep

Against this well-established tradition, lamb offers an older and more symbolic alternative, though less common in traditional American households. Its history traces back to the religious roots of Easter, linked to Passover and the Christian symbolism of the sacrificial lamb. Introduced to the United States through waves of European immigration, this tradition remains associated with more culturally rooted meals for those seeking a celebration closer to its historical origins. On the East Coast, where these influences are especially present, lamb most often appears as a roasted leg, simply seasoned with garlic, rosemary, and lemon. Its flavor, more pronounced and slightly herbal, contrasts with the sweetness of ham and calls for specific accompaniments such as mint sauce, seasonal vegetables, and roasted potatoes. Less dominant yet still meaningful, roasted Easter lamb on East Coast tables reflects a subtle balance between heritage and culinary evolution. Whatever your preference for this Easter meal, it is essential that the choice of wine accompanies this celebration, a reflection of renewal, rebirth, and the living history of a nation that celebrates its 250th anniversary this year. So here are my winey suggestions, with a simple guide to make your choice: "If you like this, then choose this!"

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"Country Ham"

Accompaniments: American biscuits (buttermilk biscuits), honey or fruit jams (peach, fig, apricot), red-eye gravy, mashed potatoes or roasted potatoes, sautéed green beans, spinach and spring baby carrots.

RED WINES

Pinot Noir

Light to medium-bodied, with fine round tannins, nice acidity and fruity aromas to cut through fat and balance the salt. Avoid Pinot Noir that is too heavy or oaky.

If you like: The Pinot Noir of northern Burgundy's Côte de Nuits — Marsannay, Gevrey-Chambertin, or Burgundy villages.

Then choose: A Pinot Noir from the northern Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills, Chehalem Mountains, or the Van Duzer Corridor; or from Santa Barbara (Sta. Rita Hills, Etna Valle); or from San Benito.

Beaujolais-style Gamay Noir (semi-carbonic fermentation)

Fruity freshness, low in tannins.

If you like: Beaujolais villages — Chiroubles or Brouilly.

Then choose: A Gamay from northern Sonoma Valley or El Dorado County (granite soil, high elevation), or a semi-carbonic Gamay from the Willamette Valley or Columbia Gorge (OR).

WHITE WINES

Semi-dry Riesling

A slight sweetness and frank acidity that tempers saltiness and awakens the palate.

If you like: German Riesling (Feinherb, Kabinett, Spätlese) or Alsatian Riesling from the Haut-Rhin. Also Sylvaner, Auxerrois, Gewurztraminer, or Muscat Ottonel.

Then choose: Finger Lakes Riesling (NY), especially around Seneca Lake; southern Willamette Valley (OR); Michigan's Old Mission Peninsula; a Sonoma Coast Sylvaner; or Virginia.

Chenin Blanc

Lively with fruity notes and refreshing acidity.

If you like: Vouvray or Montlouis demi-sec (Loire), or a semi-dry South African Chenin Blanc with roundness and notes of tropical fruit and honey.

Then choose: An off-dry Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg (Central Valley), Napa Valley, or Mendocino — nice acidity with a slight residual sugar.

What to avoid with Country Ham: Wines that are too tannic (Cabernet Sauvignon, powerful Syrah) risk hardening the palate against the salt. Wines that are too sweet or too creamy can create an imbalance.

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"City Ham"

Accompaniments: Baked asparagus, peas with fresh mint, spring baby carrots with butter and honey, potato gratin, and Pineapple Casserole.

The goal is to find a wine that can compete with the salt of the ham and the sweetness of its glaze — often honey, maple syrup, or pineapple.

WHITE WINES

If you like: The same off-dry whites as for Country Ham, plus the exuberant Viognier from Condrieu (Côtes du Rhône) or Pays d'Oc — peach, apricot aromas and creamy texture that complement the sweetness of the glaze and the saltiness of the meat.

Then choose: A Viognier from California, Oregon, or Washington State, especially from the Yakima Valley.

ROSÉ WINES

Freshness, fruit, and a little roundness — without too much structure.

If you like: Rosé d'Anjou or Cabernet d'Anjou from the Loire, or a Tavel (Provence) with more structure.

Then choose: Californian rosés with character — Cabernet Franc, Gamay, or Valdiguié. Or macerated rosés from Oregon, the Columbia Valley, Long Island (NY), or a Rosé de Blaufränkisch from Upstate New York.

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The Lamb

Accompaniments: Potatoes (often baked around the meat), garlic green beans, roasted asparagus, honey-glazed or cumin-roasted carrots or root vegetables, rosemary or thyme.

The wine must be chosen in consideration of how the lamb is prepared. For simplicity, these pairings are based on a traditional leg of lamb baked with garlic and tarragon.

RED WINES

GSM

If you like: Rhône Valley reds — Gigondas or Châteauneuf-du-Pape for garrigue and spice, or a northern Syrah like Cornas or Hermitage.

Then choose: A GSM blend (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) from the Columbia Valley (Yakima, Horse Heaven, or Walla Walla), Sierra Foothills, or El Dorado County. Also the great Syrah of Santa Barbara, Sonoma Valley, or AVA Carneros.

Bordeaux Style

If you like: Left Bank Bordeaux (Pauillac, Haut Médoc) — Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant, with tannic structure that supports the fat of the lamb and notes of undergrowth that harmonize with the herbs.

Then choose: A Bordeaux-style blend (not too young) — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot — from Napa Valley, Yakima Valley, or Texas.

Tempranillo

If you like: Rioja Reserva or Ribera del Duero — oak-aged vanilla and spice that softens against the meat.

Then choose: Oregon (Umpqua Valley & Rogue Valley) is the pioneer of American Tempranillo, but also California (Clarksburg & Central Coast), Washington State (Yakima Valley & Walla Walla), and Northeastern California (North Yuba, El Dorado).

Other Great Reds

If you like: Bandol, Cahors and Madiran (Malbec, Tannat), Blaufränkisch from Austria or Germany, Chianti Classico (Sangiovese), or Primitivo from Italy.

Then choose: Tannat from Santa Barbara, Paso Robles, or Santa Cruz. Blaufränkisch from the Finger Lakes (NY). Sangiovese from Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Paso Robles, or the Sierra Nevada foothills.

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Conclusion

Ultimately, whether your Easter table features ham — rustic or delicately glazed — or honors old tradition with a roasted leg of lamb, what truly matters is the joy of coming together and sharing the moment. Wine, in turn, enhances these experiences, building bridges between flavors and elevating the entire meal. But it's important to remember that choosing wine is, above all, a matter of style, your style. Beyond rules and pairings, it reflects your taste, your sensibility, and your curiosity. It's also a great opportunity to highlight domestic American artisan producers, who today offer wines of remarkable quality at very reasonable prices, all while expressing the true diversity of our lands. So, follow your instincts, explore different pairings, have fun comparing… and most importantly, enjoy the celebration as it should be: by first stopping in for thoughtful guidance and great selections at Bonde Fine Wine, and then around the table to share with generosity, curiosity, and good company.

Happy Easter, and cheers!